Method. Bring a pan of water to the boil, add the quail eggs and cook for 4 minutes. Drain then run under cold water. Carefully peel off half of each shell, leaving the base of each egg covered.

Pinney’s of Orford has been smoking fish over whole oak logs in their smokehouses next to the Butley river since the 1950s. Their smoked cod’s roe is a favourite.

Sprinkle the whipped cod’s roe with the dill, fennel fronds or parsley, and some black pepper, and serve a dollop with the eggs. Broaden your horizons with award-winning British journalism.